Wait, if the o2 sensors caused the exhaust manifold to fail then how isn't that covered in the warranty? Or was it due to your after market exhaust setup that they wouldn't cover it?

Sorry bro been kinda busy dealing with the government giving me the run-around with my herniated disc lol Anyway, NO the sensors were not covered by the warranty. I am pretty cool with the service manager at the Nissan Dealership out here in San Diego so even he couldn't pull any strings to help me out. I dropped about $3,900 including the rental costs for a 22 year old which is f*cking rediculous apparently. So yeah, I think I am going to have Fast Intentions install Hi Flow cats on my car and leave it that way until the C7 Corvette make their debut in 2014. But to answer your question, Nissan tightened the o2 sensors passed their recommended torque specs which caused the threading to fail and basically "melt" into the threading in the OEM Headers/Cats. SO I had buy NEW OEM headers, cats, and all 4 o2 sensors plus labor at the "steal"ership. I want to put more money into my Z but for how much I put into because of this incident, I could have bought a damn supercharger already. I am a little pissed but I need to get a house bad and stop wasting money on cars until I do. taxes are getting worse in CA and I am getting raped badly and I don't want to get married or have kids so I think a house will help me out much more than making my car faster haha

Geez that sucks. You just musta been at the wrong place at the wrong time to get that ticket...though it is Commifornia so I know they are pretty strict about their emissions standards.

What exactly is the problem with the OEM headers or o2 sensor with cooling? I didn't quite get that part. Or is that after you added the aftermarket headers?

So here is what I meant. When we removed the stock exhaust manifolds and unscrewed the o2 sensors, the threading on the o2 sensor was MELTED! It must be too close to the engine block and must get to hot for the type of metal used for the threading. So I had to take my car to the dealership to get 2 new o2 sensors. Then they said the o2 sensors messed up the factory exhaust manifolds so I had to buy new OEM Headers! The total came out to about $2500!! Luckily I sold my aftermarket headers right away for $850 so I got 95% of my money back for them.

WOW So much has happened to me recently after installing these! For one, I was injured on duty and apparently after my MRI, I have a herniated disc in my lower back pinching a few nerves including my sciatic nerve for my right leg. It F*CKING HURTS! Unimaginable pain. I'd give up my car for it to stop! And then after finally allowing my ECU to adjust to my new headers and really feeling how much low and mid range torque the headers gave my car, I get pulled over by this cop at a stop lght becuse he could smell the fumes due to my car running to rich. SO he thankfully gives me a fix it ticket instead of referee ticket! They say don't hate the player, hate the game; but holy f*ck! Lets hate the ass hat who made the game in first place! lol

EDIT: oh and David, if you are contemplating on getting a 370z, I would consider something else. I have had quite a few problems with my Z with the cooling issues to the crappy OEM header and air/fuel o2 sensor palcement. I'd get something else. I like my car a lot but I was looking at a 2010 Corvette Grandsport and I regret not buying it now lol

Thats a cool comparison. Don't worry about the whole street race legal bull crap. You don't buy sports cars for the good fuel economy! I can see why the CVT tranny limits itself to top end though based on the design. What sucks about cars now is the 7spd autos vs the 6spd manuals. My 370z 6spd modded is about as quick as a 7spd 370z stock above 100mph due to gearing. It pisses me off but I knew the 7 speed was faster before I bought my car. The same goes for the E92 BMW M3. I will neve race a 7spd but the 6spds are always game lol. One of my friends has a full bolt on 2010 Nismo 370z and he lost against a stock Lexus ISF at about 130mph due to gearing alone!!

I really wouldn't doubt that sometime in the near future a car manufacturer creates an automatic transmission with 10 gear ratios that shifts under .2 seconds and it will pretty much kill anything due to gearing. If you put 4.10's in your Altima you'd have a whole different beast! I had 3.90's in my RSXS for a little while before I got annoyed from all the shifting and that thing was pulling on 350z and 06+ Mustangs because of the higher gearing.

I have quite a few funny stories about civics and scions and doing ricer fly bys even though they weren't racing us. I was opnce messing around with my friend who had just bought an 08 Corvette Z06 and were doing 20-100mph pulls. He was kicking my ass pretty much everytime as I expected he just wanted to see how it compared I wasn't expecting anything lol Anyway during our 4th pull he stopped at 100mph and I stopped at about 90mph when caught up to him and suddenly this POS Dodge Caravan flies by us doing like 110mph!! He then slowed down to see if we were going to race again as if he would be some sort of competition? It was the dumbest thing I have ever seen. lol But scions seem to have a bad rep for the ricer stuff comapred to newer Civic Si's. I am glad since I like the style of the new Si's. i am wondering when Honda will bring the Euro style to the US!

well I got them installed today. pretty big difference in sound. I'll wait for the ECU to adjust to see how the butt dyno feels.

FINALLY got them today! I can't wait to put them on next week!

This is interesting. A Fwd car loses MORE to the driveline than a RWD or AWD? Logically to me that makes little sense. I always thought the extra length and rotating mass of the propeller shaft going to the rear wheels, plus the loss to the front wheels in an AWD would be way more than a FWD... assuming both were manual transmissions. Hmmm...

If your stock crank hp is 205, and you pulled 162 to the wheels, that's over 20% drivetrain loss and seems quite high compared to most other dyno results I've seen with FWD cars... now my head's hurting.

To answer your first question, FWD lose less hp than RWD adn AWD. From what I have seen from multiple dynos, it goes in order FWD<RWD<AWD. And AWD takes a hard hit! Look at the mazdaspeed3 vs the mazdaspeed6. The mazdaspeed6 gets to 60 faster but the speed3 catches up by the end of the 1/4 and will continue to pull ahead due to a better power to weight ratio and drivetrain loss.

The dyno dynamics I went to for my DC5 was a notorious "ball breaker" dyno by it produced the most consistent numbers from the forum members feed back. The main thing a dyno should be used for is to show progression through mods or tuning. If you try and compare a dyno jet to a mustang dyno the numbers will vary extremely and the same goes when trying to compared the exact same dynos. All dynos are calibrated differently and give different loads on the vehicle. Also some places don't open the hood of the car, some use 3 fans while others use 1, some even take off the front fascia of the car! All these can and will produce varied results if not consistent, and ambient temperature is a big factor as well. When I took my 370z in to the dyno shop out here in San Diego the guy didn't turn on the fan at first and I made sure he did. I even went as far as writing the make/model and last 4 digits of the fan to make sure the next time I go he uses the same fan. Even if my Z dynod at 250hp I would be a little bummed yes but after all the mods I add to it and it dynos at 285 I'd be happy. Even though most other Z's are putting an average 280 to the wheels, I added 45hp to it from the mods. Basically meaning from the stock 332hp at the crank, its now making roughly 377-387hp at the crank and some people would say itd be even more than that due to much more than expected drivetrain loss. My Z didn't dyno at 250 but made average gains if you compare the dynos but like I said, you can't really compare differewnt dynos even if they are the same type. DynoDynamics tends to read low for most people but the place I went to had both a Dynojet and Dynamics and both produced nearly the same results which supprised me but all I needed it for was a baseline which is important. Some dynoshops have been caught adjusting their calibration loads on their machines just to say their part you bought for $3,000 worked and made 65hp over stock! The owner doesn't know any better and thinks his car is much faster after he just bought the $3k exhaust bearing!

I thought the 06 Type S was 210hp stock???

The baseline and results at the wheels. Its 205hp stock and on a DynoDynamics it produced only 162hp at the wheels which sounds about right for how FWD cars lose power to drive train compared to AWD and RWD. So it was putting an estimated 267-277 at the crank. The sad part is because I had 4.10's in it, it pulled as hard my Z did stock to 60 from 5mph!! The after 60 my Z took off by about a car in each gear. If I would have gotten rid of the Type S seats and it had no sun roof, it would have the same lb/hp ratio as a stock 370z touring which is pretty good compared to most cars you see. I pissed off A LOT of mustangs while I had that car haha now I don't even waste my time with them unless its a Roushe/GT500 or terminator.

Is yours a base a typse s? I haven't seen a type S with a 5spd unless its completely aftermarket. One of my friends has a 94 EG Hatchback witha K20/K24 engine and 5spd tranny in it, its N/A and he runs mid 12's with it but his trap speed is low compared to most cars in that category. I used to own a 2006 RSX Type S. I miss my little DC5 but I like my Z a lot more but heres a few picks. I had Toda Race Header, Vibrant Cat Back, AEM CAI, Innovative engine mounts machined in red, and ITR stage 2 cams. It made 227fwhp over 162 stock.

That color to me on any car, the charcoal gray color, is best looking when done up right. Clean.

no what's worse is if he removed the flairs the wheels would stick out like those old school low rider cars.

Nice ride! And welcome to the site!

I have flirted with the idea of getting a 370z Nismo myself. Fast Intentions + Stillen = Greatness!

So was the dyno done after the Intake/Exhaust setup? Was the car tuned that day?

I am not going to dyno it until I get my long tube headers from Fast Intentions. It should get about 30-40whp over stock with full bolt ons but I'm hoping for at least 380 at the crank. Members on the370z.com have gotten about 20-30rwhp from stock to the G3's and FI Cat Back so I'm guessing its about, it definiteley pulls harder than stock. Unfortunately until a tuner unlocks the VVEL, the only thing that can be tuned is the A/F ratio. Every time someone tries to adjust the timing, the ECU kicks it back to stock along with the A/F ratio lol Stupid Nissan. It's a fun car though, it sure makes E92 M3 drivers sweat when they realise they aren't pulling ahead by much

LED Swaps/Misc Crap





Random pic

Stillen G3 Intakes



GTM Oil Cooler





Various LED swaps/Misc Crap

Purchased January 5, 2010







Stock Dyno with roughly 1,100 miles:





Fast Intentions Cat Back (I'll be getting the F.I. Long Tube Headers next week or the following)